jay sheldon Archives — FusionFortySeven <F47>

This blog has moved. After redesigning my website in June 2019 I have moved my blogs to:https://www.davemacleod.com/blogI'll leave the archive of posts on this and my personal as they are. But new posts will follow at the above URL. You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube.I will be continuing to produce […]

Vlog #10 Three strategies for a stronger new year

Here are three strategies I use in my own climbing to reflect on the previous year and plan for better results in the coming year, with some examples of how to implement them. Near the end of this video, I discuss some supplementation I do while recovering from tendon/ligament injuries. The paper I reference is […]

Vlog #2 How to make your own wood holds

Vlog #2 is published. We all think wooden hangboards are a no brainer. They are nice to use, they save your skin. They allow you to do more training. More folks are thinking the same about wood holds for the actual climbing. They are not a new invention of course! But this is the nature […]

Vlog #1 How to train early or when you only have 10 mins

For a long time I’ve considered making a vlog as an additional form of media to share ideas for improving at climbing. Now its happening and here is episode 1. I’ll post all of them up here on this blog of course, or you can subscribe to my youtube channel as well to make sure […]

Edge Hangboard

I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on […]

Climbing Magazine – Hot Flashes

Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed October 21, 2019

Although there have been other storylines sprinkled throughout the 2019 IFSC lead season—the collective dominance of Team Japan and an interlude of Olympic invitations at the World Championships—the big narrative has always been the ongoing rivalry between the legendary Janja Garnbret of Slovenia ...Continue reading

Livestreams: IFSC World Cup 2019 Xiamen—Lead and Speed October 18, 2019

The Xiamen, China, event of The 2019 IFSC World Cup season will take place on October 19-20. Watch lead semi-finals and finals and speed finals below, and check Climbing.com later for a full recap and photo gallery. IFSC World Cup 2019 Xiamen: Speed FinalsOctober 19, 5:45 A.M. MDTIFSC World Cup ...Continue reading

Learning to Trust: How Climbing Is Helping Maine Teens Conquer Anxiety October 17, 2019

When Rick Charity ties in at the base of the tallest section of the wall at a climbing gym in southern Maine, his pupils flock around him, chatting amongst themselves. “Rick is climbing? Whoa, Rick is climbing! Who—who is going to belay you?” they chant. In the eight weeks since the group of teens ...Continue […]

Basecamp: A Climbing Magazine Podcast—Rob Pizem Talks Unaweep Canyon October 17, 2019

Unaweep Canyon is a climbing destination just south of Grand Junction, Colorado, with sweeping granite walls for miles. Yet, it doesn't get much traffic. Rob Pizem wrote a feature about Unaweep for the October/November issue of Climbing Magazine. We caught up with Rob to talk about Unaweep, the ...Continue reading

Join Climbing's Summit Membership October 17, 2019

Join Climbing Magazine's Summit Membership to receive exclusive access to in-depth Climbing articles, bonus digital content, direct access to the Climbing editorial staff, discounts on climbing gear, a Vertical Life Channel trial subscription, and more. Get Exclusive Access Now Here's what you'll ...Continue reading

Climbing Narc

Moving On And Getting Over January 9, 2019

Reflecting back on the surprising ways this website impacted me in real life, the winter of 2011 was a pivotal one. At the beginning of January I found myself at my first Outdoor Retailer trade show with Kevin Jorgeson, ostensibly to figure out how we could collaborate on his Professional Climbers International project. Ultimately that […]

Rhythm April 29, 2015

Yes, I'm still alive...

Video Friday – 4/3/2015 April 3, 2015

The highest rated videos of the past week...

Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals April 1, 2015

Delaney Miller and Kai Lightner win 2015 SCS Nationals

Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Finals March 28, 2015

Tune in tonight at 6:45 PM EDT for live coverage of the final round of 2015 SCS Nationals from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA

Tag: jay sheldon

Climb Up – A Short Documentary