jay sheldon Archives — FusionFortySeven <F47>

This blog has moved. After redesigning my website in June 2019 I have moved my blogs to:https://www.davemacleod.com/blogI'll leave the archive of posts on this and my personal as they are. But new posts will follow at the above URL. You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube.I will be continuing to produce […]

Vlog #10 Three strategies for a stronger new year

Here are three strategies I use in my own climbing to reflect on the previous year and plan for better results in the coming year, with some examples of how to implement them. Near the end of this video, I discuss some supplementation I do while recovering from tendon/ligament injuries. The paper I reference is […]

Vlog #2 How to make your own wood holds

Vlog #2 is published. We all think wooden hangboards are a no brainer. They are nice to use, they save your skin. They allow you to do more training. More folks are thinking the same about wood holds for the actual climbing. They are not a new invention of course! But this is the nature […]

Vlog #1 How to train early or when you only have 10 mins

For a long time I’ve considered making a vlog as an additional form of media to share ideas for improving at climbing. Now its happening and here is episode 1. I’ll post all of them up here on this blog of course, or you can subscribe to my youtube channel as well to make sure […]

Edge Hangboard

I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on […]

Climbing Magazine – Hot Flashes

Interview: Miles Adamson on the First Ascent of Grandma Peabody Highball Too Tall to Fall (V10) January 17, 2020

While the 55-foot-tall Grandma Peabody boulder sports 10+ boulder problems, no one had completed a boulder ascent of its slab face until this year, when Miles Adamson made the FA of Too Tall to Fall (V10) on Jan 1. The new line starts up Dan Beall's Tiers of Uncertainty, a 5.14 toprope, before ...Continue reading

Uncut: Gabriele Moroni Climbs Demencia Senil (9a+/5.15a), Margalef, Spain January 16, 2020

Italian climber Gabriele Moroni has been travelling to Margalef, Spain, every winter holiday since 2014 with the goal of climbing the famous Demencia Senil (9a+/5.15a). The route was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2009. It was the hardest route in Margalef at the ...Continue reading

Access Fund Challenges Indoor Climbing Gyms With New InsideOut Education Initiative January 15, 2020

January 15, 2020. Boulder, CO - Access Fund is excited to announce the launch of a new education initiative this month—the InsideOut Challenge—to help indoor climbing gyms raise awareness around the issues facing our outdoor climbing areas, helping them turn their members into engaged climbing ...Continue reading

Deal of the Week: Big Cams, Headlamps, Apparel, and More January 15, 2020

The big, blowout sales of the holidays are behind us, but that doesn’t mean you can't find deals on the gear and apparel you need for these cold mid-winter cragging days. Right now Black Diamond is offering discounts on past seasons' gear. You can pick up items like a BD Brush, Dirtbag ...Continue reading

Photo Gallery: 10 Bob Ross Inspired Climbing Photos January 14, 2020

Can you ever have too much Bob? Nature is colorful, nature is beautiful, and above all nature is inspiring. I’m always on the lookout for colorful scenes and ways to incorporate abstract colors into a photograph. Probably too much according to my editors, who never seem to run this style of ...Continue reading

Climbing Narc

Moving On And Getting Over January 9, 2019

Reflecting back on the surprising ways this website impacted me in real life, the winter of 2011 was a pivotal one. At the beginning of January I found myself at my first Outdoor Retailer trade show with Kevin Jorgeson, ostensibly to figure out how we could collaborate on his Professional Climbers International project. Ultimately that […]

Rhythm April 29, 2015

Yes, I'm still alive...

Video Friday – 4/3/2015 April 3, 2015

The highest rated videos of the past week...

Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals April 1, 2015

Delaney Miller and Kai Lightner win 2015 SCS Nationals

Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Finals March 28, 2015

Tune in tonight at 6:45 PM EDT for live coverage of the final round of 2015 SCS Nationals from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA

Tag: jay sheldon

Climb Up – A Short Documentary