jay sheldon Archives — FusionFortySeven <F47>

This blog has moved. After redesigning my website in June 2019 I have moved my blogs to:https://www.davemacleod.com/blogI'll leave the archive of posts on this and my personal as they are. But new posts will follow at the above URL. You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and YouTube.I will be continuing to produce […]

Vlog #10 Three strategies for a stronger new year

Here are three strategies I use in my own climbing to reflect on the previous year and plan for better results in the coming year, with some examples of how to implement them. Near the end of this video, I discuss some supplementation I do while recovering from tendon/ligament injuries. The paper I reference is […]

Vlog #2 How to make your own wood holds

Vlog #2 is published. We all think wooden hangboards are a no brainer. They are nice to use, they save your skin. They allow you to do more training. More folks are thinking the same about wood holds for the actual climbing. They are not a new invention of course! But this is the nature […]

Vlog #1 How to train early or when you only have 10 mins

For a long time I’ve considered making a vlog as an additional form of media to share ideas for improving at climbing. Now its happening and here is episode 1. I’ll post all of them up here on this blog of course, or you can subscribe to my youtube channel as well to make sure […]

Edge Hangboard

I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on […]

Climbing Magazine – Hot Flashes

Deal of the Week: Stay Warm All Winter December 12, 2019

We climbers can be persistent folk, spending freezing winter nights by a campfire in the hope of sending our desert project the next day. Or going out against the forecast in hopes that the granite on that sunny wall is just warm enough that our tips won't freeze. Or ice climbing.Luckily, ...Continue reading

Top 2019 Tech Gifts for Climbing December 12, 2019

We get it: The idea of having too much tech in the backcountry makes a lot of people cringe. After all, we go out there to get off our phones, wean our eyes off screens and literally unplug. But what if we told you there were a handful of battery-operated items that could actually enhance […]

The Top 5 Rules for Effective Goal-Setting December 12, 2019

I’ve always been motivated by goals. Evaluating my past experiences and then setting ambitions for the future is one of my favorite aspects of climbing; it’s helped me push through the grades, from sending my first 5.12, Ejector Seat in 2005, to sending Jumbo Love, my first 5.15b, in 2018. Almost ...Continue reading

Summit Roundtable Podcast: Remembering Brad Gobright, Nose Ascents, Olympic Updates, and More December 11, 2019

For the second episode of our Rountable podcast, the Climbing Magazine staff discusses three recent Nose ascents, Hazel Findlay's Magic Line redpoint, and recent additions to the US Olympic climbing team, as well as Brag Gobright's tragic accident in El Potrero Chico. Plus, we share our recent ...Continue reading

Pineapple Express: Inside the First Ascent of an All-Free El Capitan 5.13 December 11, 2019

The following feature was originally published in the August/September 2019 issue of our print edition. To read more great stories like this and receive other benefits, join our new Summit Membership program. On Halloween Day 1964, four of the world’s best climbers— Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, ...Continue reading

Climbing Narc

Moving On And Getting Over January 9, 2019

Reflecting back on the surprising ways this website impacted me in real life, the winter of 2011 was a pivotal one. At the beginning of January I found myself at my first Outdoor Retailer trade show with Kevin Jorgeson, ostensibly to figure out how we could collaborate on his Professional Climbers International project. Ultimately that […]

Rhythm April 29, 2015

Yes, I'm still alive...

Video Friday – 4/3/2015 April 3, 2015

The highest rated videos of the past week...

Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals April 1, 2015

Delaney Miller and Kai Lightner win 2015 SCS Nationals

Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Finals March 28, 2015

Tune in tonight at 6:45 PM EDT for live coverage of the final round of 2015 SCS Nationals from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA

Tag: jay sheldon

Climb Up – A Short Documentary