Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge – Charons Gardens Wilderness
Cedar Rock is a formation just west of Lost Dome. It is most easily reached from first hiking to Lost Dome and then uphill to Come and get Your Love and then along the wall to the top western-most portion of the wall. It is at this rise that you get a great view of the main face of Lost Dome and the South face of Cedar Rock. Hike down into a boulder-socked gully and find the path of least resistance through the rocks until reaching the opposite side of the gully where you will find a faint trail leading to crag. The most prominent line is a crack route on the right side of the formation which forms a precarious looking pillar at the top.
There are a handful of easy to moderate routes here. Though the routes are not nearly as classic in nature as those at Lost Dome and the rock quality is not as “bullet,” the routes are fun and worth the trip.
The crack line, as prominent as it appears, was surely climbed before but no one has stepped forward with an account of an ascent or a name for the route – so until then…
Currently there are 5 routes – some of which have been done only as top-ropes and may have applications for lead bolts (where appropriate) in the future.
Routes are described here from right to left if you are facing the wall. Note: route heights are approximations.
1.) ** Steady Like Stedman (Direct) 5.12? (currently a TR – may be a mixed route in the future). Begins downhill from Crack of Fate in the cave-like overhang area. Climb the steep overhang directly up to the beginning of the crack system, turn the lip and head directly up. FA: open project Gear: Top rope, no anchors Height: 60ft
2.) ** Steady Like Stedman 5.11a (currently a TR – may be a mixed route in the future). Begins just downhill and right of Crack of Fate. Climb a balancy face up and right until reaching a crack system that takes you to the top of the formation. FA: Aaron Gibson 2006 Gear: Top rope, no anchors Height: 60ft
3.) *** Crack of Fate (aka Pillar of Fate) 5.8 – A great crack line that has gone overlooked, until now. This is the most obvious line on Cedar Rock. A crack splits the right side and forms a precariously perched pillar formation at the top. The climb starts on the lower right-hand side hidden in the trees. Climb a well-featured face to a dihedral/mini-roof. Step up and left (similar move to Mr. Green Slings on Mount Scott) and start the real fun. A tricky sequence leads to a bomber crack where you can climb straight-on hand-jam style. Towards the top you will catch some relief on the right on some good holds or continue in pure style straight up the crack. FA: Aaron Gibson, et al. Gear: cams to 3”, no anchors Height: 60ft
4.) ** Kubrick Corner – 40 ft – 5.10c – TR – Begin at the base of O-Face and climb up and right following the angling feature to what appears to be a shallow dihedral. A short but technical climb. FA: Aaron Gibson (TR) Gear: Top rope, no anchors Height: 40ft
5.) *** O-Face 5.10d This route combines technical face climbing with a couple of small roofs. Gear is required before the first bolt. After clipping the first bolt pull onto the face and climb up underneath a small roof. Here you can place a solid small/med cam. Pull through the roof and clip the second bolt. Due to a broken hold during the placement of the second bolt (while on lead), the crux is more difficult than it was when first climbed. After clipping the second bolt pull through another bulge section and make a few face moves to reach the top. FA: Aaron Gibson 2006 Gear: quickdraws, small cams (aliens) & cams to #1 Camalot, 2-bolt anchor Height: 40ft
6.) * Patch 5.6 This is the short crack on the left side of the wall that gets you to the top of the formation. Nothing special. FA: Aaron Gibson 2006 Gear: medium to wide cams, no anchors Height: 40ft