This has always been one of my favorite routes due to its position, exposure and level of adventure. Here on the second pitch of the west Spire, the top of the climb ends at a small pinnacle just big enough for two people to run the rope through a bolted anchor and rappel the south side of the formation.
The first pitch, though it may have been changed by now, was a runout affair on rusty ring bolts and pitons. The first pitch ends at a notch between the two spires and then the face and slab climbing begins along the left edge and continues to the top. I’m not sure how many times I’ve done this climb – at least once per trip – so at least six times – and it’s always been fun.
I’m going back through my archives of photos to do some individual photo postings along with a short (or maybe in some cases long) blurb about the picture; who, what, where, when, etc.
So we’ll kick it off with this one from 1997 (I think) from a month long climbing trip to Alberta and British Columbia. There were a number of highlights to the trip but one of the best was climbing in the Bugaboos. Here’s one from the approach to the Conrad Kain Hut which is situated in the heart of the mountains and serves as base camp for daily outings. I have a few pictures from this trip but not nearly enough. Here Andy Magness and I pause to capture a rare slide-film moment on the way in. The photo is a bit washed out (over-exposed) and I’m pretty sure I did some contrast and color correction after scanning the original (back in 2004).
Notice the size of the glacier in the background! I wonder if this glacier is half as large as it used to be.