Edge Hangboard
I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on […]
Failure to sleep 8hrs = failure to train
This is a fantastic lecture by Kirk Parsely on why you need (NEED!) 8 hours sleep per night, and why if you don’t get it, your training, studying etc is at best impaired and at worst a complete waste of time. Kirk lays it on the line. But if you don’t have the hour to […]
Climbing masterclass dates at my wall
I don’t get much time to run climbing coaching sessions these days but I have just put up details of sessions I am running at my own wall in early December and over the Fort William Mountain Festival in February. These always sell out so if you are keen, do ring and book your place.In […]
Reflections on beginning climbing coaching again
A few shots of my own training over the past few daysI built a large climbing wall at my house a year and a half ago, not just for myself, but with the intention of running climbing coaching sessions there. I knew it would be great to have a dedicated climbing facility that I’d set […]
Review: Stonesmith holds
Some new shapes ready to go on my wall ahead of my first masterclasses at my place last week!I am seriously obsessive about holds, as any route-setter should be. Although you end up setting with a lot of holds you either don’t like that much or equivocal about, it’s always a pleasure both to set […]

How to Accomplish Big Goals Disaster-Style in 6 Easy Steps July 20, 2018
You’ve dreamed big, but you know that as a responsible tax-paying adult, your biggest, boldest dreams—the kind you lived for as a child—often die before they’re born. So you resign, by default, through a lack of initiative and action, from what you really want; you’re waiting for a perfect moment ...Continue reading
Adam Ondra Visits the Canadian Rockies July 19, 2018
In the first episode of Adam Ondra in the Rockies, the Czech star visits the Canadian sport crags Planet X and Acephale. After battling dry, glassy skin on his first day, Ondra employs some pro tactics to manage his fingertips and heads back to the crag for round, where he attempts to onsight ...Continue reading
Game-Changing Belay Device Hit US Market This Summer: The Wild Country Revo July 19, 2018
“The Revo is awesome,” says Wild Country athlete James Pearson, who with his climbing/life partner and fellow Wild Country team member, Caroline Ciavaldini, has been testing and helping develop the belay device over the past two years. “If it were to replace a lot of other ‘auto-blockers’ out ...Continue reading
Flowchart: What to Train to Redpoint Your Project July 18, 2018
Everyone wants to send, but figuring out precisely how—amidst the many training approaches out there—is challenging. However, what you should focus on is maximizing effort—in the appropriate way, relative to where you’re at on your project. I developed the above flow chart, with suggestions, to ...Continue reading
Review: Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight & Watertight .5 July 18, 2018
Think of your medical kit as an insurance policy: Buy one and pack it with you diligently each time you head into the hills, and you’ll probably never need it. But neglect to buy one and you’ll probably rip a finger open in a sharp finger crack and start gushing blood everywhere, trying to staunch […]

Rhythm April 29, 2015
Yes, I'm still alive...
Video Friday – 4/3/2015 April 3, 2015
The highest rated videos of the past week...
Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals April 1, 2015
Delaney Miller and Kai Lightner win 2015 SCS Nationals
Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Finals March 28, 2015
Tune in tonight at 6:45 PM EDT for live coverage of the final round of 2015 SCS Nationals from Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA
Live From 2015 SCS Nationals Semifinals March 28, 2015
Tune in today at Noon EDT for live coverage of the Semifinal round of 2015 SCS Nationals at Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA