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TULSA BOULDERING GUIDE

Some of you know that I have been working on a Tulsa Boulering Guide off and on for the past year. Well, I'm tired of these drawings just sitting around on my hard-drive so I thought I'd put them out there for everyone. Included are some new maps to Chandler, North Mexico, and Little Germany - for those who have yet to find these areas, these maps should get you there. I have a long list (database) of routes which I am working on and I will post (or publish as a guide) - but this is still a work in progress. Writing a bouldering guide hasn't been my top priority but I want to get it done now so I'll start working on it again. Thanks to everyone thus far who has submitted beta, route names, ratings, photos, and advice, I really appreciate the help. Obviously I do not claim to have done every problem in Chandler - there are climbs there that I routinely get shut down on

APPROACH:

There are two places to park for the "East Chandler" area. When you enter Chandler Park you can veer right at the "V" and go to the lower parking lot or you can stay right and go to the upper parking area. The lower parking lot is located at the furthest end of the road, past the pavilion, past the tennis courts, and the playground. Park at the turn-around (there will be a big green sign with rules) and hike the short trail to the cliffs (on your left). The upper area is the preferred place to park. When you enter Chandler Park stay left and drive up the steep hill. After you pass the pool and a couple of buildings on your left there will be a large gravel parking area on your right. Park here. Approach the area via steps.

OVERVIEW MAP - Climbing areas along Avery Drive

East Chandler Park - aka Lower Chandler

ID Area Wall Name Climb Name Rating First Ascent Description
1 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Wings Of Steel V3 Terry Andrews Climb the steep face right of the arete.
2 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall The Only Issue V5 Eric Forney / John Frank Right of the start of Wings, climb up and right on small holds.
3 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Straight On Bong Blvd. V5 Curt Fry / K. Katon Traverse the backside of Wings of Steel Wall from corner to corner.
4 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Unknown V0 ? Climb the easy corner, slick spots from much tennis shoe traffic.
5 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Broken Wings V5.7 ? Climb the crack at the end of the south face.
6 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall South Face Traverse V5.9 ? Traverse the spray painted south face.
7 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Misc. Unknown Lines V0-V2 N/A Several lines exist on the well-spray-painted wall on the opposite side of the Wings of Steel Wall. The thickness of spray paint on the wall will affect the grade. 
8 Lower Chandler Wings of Steel Wall Sandbagger V3? ?
9 Lower Chandler Twin Cracks Wall L5 5.10 S. Audrain? Left of Men At Work, stay right of the left arete.
10 Lower Chandler Twin Cracks Wall Men At Work V5 ? Originally done as a boulder problem. A popular route. Climb the obvious face left of the right arete. Try this route without using the arete.
11 Lower Chandler Twin Cracks Wall Twin Cracks V0 ? Follow the slickest cracks you've ever slipped your hands into. Cracks head up and right.
12 Lower Chandler Fire Cave Wall Cubik V0 ? Climb the juggy cave. A couple different variations exist.
13 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall Gangrene V2 Terry Andrews This route has two ring bolts, however it was originally done as a boulder problem. Climb straight up staying left of the arete.
14 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall Unknown ? Line left of Gangrene.
15 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall Stress Test V6 Eric Forney Climb the tall (awesome looking) wall staying right of the arete. Very thin.
16 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall The North American V11 Jack Dixon or Larry Harris? All I know is there's a dyno involved that looks really sick. No beta on this one yet. Not sure if it's been done.
17 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall The Provider V5 Jack Dixon Left of Northwest Corner, right of The North American. No more beta on this one either.
18 Lower Chandler Gangrene Wall Northwest Corner V7 ? Problem starts low and right and angles up and left to a positive finishing hold.
19 Lower Chandler Sunset Wall Unknown V0 ? Climb face just uphill of tree.
20 Lower Chandler Sunset Wall Cutfinger V0 Terry Andrews Begin in a finger/layaway crack on smooth face, crank to the right to to a left slanting crack and follow it to the top.  The small hold that you encounter in the middle of this move is the reason for the route name. Stay off of right arete.
21 Lower Chandler Sunset Wall Sunset Wall V1 Terry Andrews Climb cracks beneath tree.
22 Lower Chandler Stryper Wall Stryper (aka 5.11 to Nowhere) 5.11+ John Frank / Jimmy Ratzlaff Two bolts take you to the top of this taller wall. Recommend TR on this one, the bolts are old.
23 Lower Chandler Stryper Wall True Grip 5.10c Jimmy Ratzlaff Right of Stryper, head up the face.
24 Lower Chandler Stryper Wall Top Rope to Nowhere 5.10a ? Just left of the arete, follow big holds up the wall.
25 Lower Chandler Wall Below Stryper Pat's Triumph 5.11c Patrick Huntley Climb the steep wall right of the brown water streak. One bolt located at the top of the wall.
26 Lower Chandler Wall Below Stryper Unknown Boulder Problem V? ? Start low and right and traverse up and left into the main wall until you get about mid-way to a descent hold. This problem may eventually top-out, but it would be scary.
27 Lower Chandler Wall Below Stryper Unknown Boulder Problem V? ? Starting low on the right side head directly up through a funky mantle and into chossy cove. Downclimb for descent.
28 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Tennis Court Cracks 5.9- ? From the right side of the formation (facing wall) climb the double cracks up and to the left.
29 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Tennis Court 5.9- ? Climb the short face right of Tennis Court Cracks.
30 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Volley and Return 5.10c ? Left of Tennis Court Cracks, climb up and through small roofs above.
31 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Hard Serve 5.11- ? Left of Volley and Return. Follow a diagonal incipient crack up and left staying left of the bulge.
32 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Luv 5.8+ ? Giant offwidth about 8 feet left of Hard Serve start.
33 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Racket 5.10a ? Further left is a finger crack beginning at head height. Climb and finish as you choose.
34 Lower Chandler Tennis Court Wall Access Problem 5.easy ? Access to the top. Left of Racket.
35 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall Control and Resistance V9 Jack Dixon
36 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall Loan Shark V7 Jack Dixon
37 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall Altered Beast V5 Jack Dixon
38 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall Altered Beast with Sit Start V10 Jack Dixon
39 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall The Strangler V11 Jack Dixon
40 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall New World V9 Chris Owens
41 Lower Chandler Control and Resistance Wall 6th Degree V6 Sean Stiles

 

Chandler Park - aka Upper Chandler

 

West Chandler Park - no routes shown yet - yes there are plenty of boulder problems out here - map will be updated

 

For those still roaming the hillsides along Avery, here's a map to get you where you want to go. Just watch out for poison ivy, there's tons of it.